Games Workshop was kind enough to provide us with these models for review.
DYLON: Awww they back, friends. I still have all these in metal from the nineties that I never painted, so it’s only fitting that I get half the box and assemble and paint some in three days. The sprue is so small…
Fowler: I think that these models are very cool, but this aesthetic does not land with me as “Spyrers.” I’m also a bit disappointed that all of the non-Orrus Spyrers share the same bodies. It would have been nice to see a distinct Yeld vs. Hunt Master vs. etcetera.
DYLON: They managed to cram four minis into two identical sprues, with parts for the Yeld on both. “Limiting” is a word to use here, as you’re pretty locked into the builds. With the one sprue I received, I was able to build the Jakara and figure out legs to make the Malcadon.
Assembly
DYLON: These all have MANY parts. The Orrus having five parts per leg kind of many. I did a lot of dry-fitting to make sure I knew how they went together because there are some parts that really don’t make sense until you get it right and then they just snap in place. Looking at you, rear ankle joint on the Orrus. Otherwise, they’re modern GW kits, and the largely go together great. There are more slightly vague connections that I’d like, but again, take your time and dry fit everything.
Fowler: Check out our Hive Secundus Box Model Review for my thoughts on the Orrus. The Malcadon, Yeld, Jakara, & Hunt Leader box is a bit of an oddity in the Necromunda line. The arms are ball joints, but everything else is static – with the notable exception of an extra leg for different poses. The sprue is a bit of a letdown, especially if you were dreaming about triple Yeld lists. This kit is the price of a standard Necromunda gang – but you get two smaller sprues and a pretty distinct lack of options. Let’s say you split the box and give sprues to two different people before checking the kit out (which may or may not be from experience). You cannot build the Yeld, as each sprue has one wing. You cannot build two Spyrers with swords (as you get one per sprue). If you are looking to split a box, it would be best to coordinate which bits each person will need. My recommendation is to plan out which Spyrers you’d like to build (and which pieces are required) before you start clipping.
Additionally, several options (most notably the whip) are not present. The consensus around the Necromunday water cooler is that Spyrers will largely be seen like Ambots – with WYSIWYG not much of a concern. Build what looks cool!
Painting
DYLON: I had some ideas going into painting these minis. Ideas that shifted very quickly. But, the first steps were the same regardless. I started with a Black undercoat and then a dry brush of Ushabti Bone.
I had initially thought of doing them in a mostly black scheme with pops of color, but then pivoted hard to embrace a more Blanchian scheme. Over the undercoat, I glazed all the armor panels with Blood Angels Red Contrast.
I painted all the metal with Army Painter Shining Silver. I went bright with these just based off the fact that they’re not of the under hive. Metals were washed with a black wash. The skin received a base of Knight Questor Flesh, and the lenses were based in black, highlighted with white and glazed with Warp Lightning Contrast. Straps were glazed with Snakebite Leather Contrast. All the concrete bits were painted with XV-88 and the base tops with Doombull Brown.
A few more details, glazing the skin with Gulliman Flesh Contrast and some powders on the concrete on the bases and they’re good to go!
Final Thoughts, Parting Shots, and What Have You
DYLON: I’m really happy with how these came out. And despite some grumblings that I’d heard about assembly, I was able to get them assembled in an evening without too much fuss. I’m looking forward to adding a Yeld and painting up the Caryatid Prime. Will these get much use… maybe? I do have a friend talking about playing through the Secundus Campaign, so, you may see these on the table yet!
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